The distance between your LEDs and the acrylic will partly dictate how the light is diffused.Some kind of stilt to separate the top and bottom pieces of wood/MDF.You'll want a material such as the 5.6mm opal acrylic which does a solid job at diffusing the LEDs.I've designed all the EPS files compensating for a 0.2mm kerf width. Again, I'd recommend Ponoko for cutting these.Laser cut acrylic resource and port tiles (vector files provided).Frankly, the bottom doesn't need to be laser cut if you can trace/saw your own hexagonal base. You'll probably want the 6.2mm plywood or MDF for the top but the bottom can be thinner at 3.2mm.Again, make sure everything in black is being cut while everything in red is being etched (the red dots provide a guide for drilling the magnet holes).If you decide to use another laser cutter, make sure that you read their documentation on laser kerf width since you want to make sure the fit with the acrylic tiles is snug (the kerf width affects this).I found my board on Etsy but the EPS files I've provided very closely resemble it but with the correct port locations.Laser cut plywood game board (vector files provided).Use 1mm clear acrylic and make sure the black circles are cut and the red numbers/letters are etched.Their customer service is also super helpful if you have any questions. The above link is to Ponoko which I found to be a very reliable online laser cutting resource.Laser cut numbered tokens (vector files provided).I used the same back for all of the cards (even development cards) excluding the longest road/largest army cards which are just double sided.You'll need: 14 knight cards, 5 victory point cards, 2 roadbuilding cards, 2 year of plenty cards, 2 monopoly cards, 1 longest road card, 1 largest army card, and 19 of each resource card (brick, wood, sheep, ore, wheat).
#LASER CUT CATAN BOARD FREE#
Feel free to hop into Photoshop and match the cards to your own color choices!
Resin pieces tend to have a weightier, higher quality feel but are more expensive than PLA, up to you! It's what I used but if you own a 3D printer then just use the files I provided. The link above is a subreddit where people around the world will 3D print your thing for a modest fee.4 sets of Catan pieces with magnet recesses (3D files provided).Feel free to shop around for one you like and can mount relatively easily. My build uses a switch but a button is better for this use case.Capacitor (to prevent power surges to the LED strip).Arduino Microcontroller or Arduino Microcontroller 2 (both work great).Power Adapter (unless using Battery Pack).Power Supply or Battery Pack for more mobile use.Individually addressable RGB LEDs - I used 3 LEDs per resource tile and 1 LED per port (66) but you could (should?) theoretically use fewer (like 47).
#LASER CUT CATAN BOARD CODE#
You can rig up the LEDs and get the code running on the Arduino without doing any soldering. If you don't want to buy everything all at once, definitely start with the electronics since they're the backbone of this build. I won't list materials like wires, solder, soldering iron, wood glue, hot glue guns, drill, clamps, etc because (hopefully) you have those lying around or can borrow them from a friend. Some very basic woodworking knowledge (or a friend with a miter/table saw) will be handy as well. This build assumes you have some experience with microcontrollers (I used an Arduino) and that you either have the ability to solder together all of the LEDs or can make do with solder-less connectors.
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